I’ve got no idea who lovely Howard is but if he means it’s the tastiest dish you can make super cheaply from leftovers then he’s absolutely spot on. This isn’t a fancy dish by any means – in fact, Google tells me that the food writer Howard Hillman classes it as one of the “great peasant dishes of the world”. I make my own version now and it’s one of those tastes that remind me of my childhood, my Dad specifically which makes me enjoy it even more. We had it every Boxing day using our Christmas Dinner leftovers and at least once a month using Sunday Dinner leftovers often served with a poached egg on top and some slices of cold meat with it. Traditional Bubble and Squeak is made from cooked potatoes and cabbage, mixed together and fried but my Dad used to make his with whatever leftover vegetables we had on the day. Order your copy from .At this time of year, the one recipe that should be at the top of your must-cook list should absolutely be this traditional Bubble and Squeak recipe! Leaf: Lettuce, Greens, Herbs, Weeds by Catherine Phipps, is published by Quadrille (£25). Serve with anything you like – I spread them with butter and/or top with bacon and maple syrup.Keep the cooked waffles warm in a low oven while you make the rest.Cook until set and turning a rich brown on the ridges – often up to around 10 minutes, depending on your waffle iron. Spread some of the mixture over your waffle iron, making sure you don’t overfill it – it should just barely cover the tips of the indentations.Add the rest, again, folding in as gently as possible and keeping the mixing to the absolute minimum. Whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks, then fold a tablespoon into the batter, just to loosen it slightly.Fold this through the batter, making sure you keep the mixing to a bare minimum. Whisk the flour, baking powder and bicarbonate of soda with a generous amount of salt and pepper.Mix together the butter, buttermilk, egg yolks and wholegrain mustard, then stir in the mashed potatoes, greens and cheese, if using.

500g cooked greens – anything robust (I like sprout tops, shredded sprouts, chard, kale).Prep time: 20 minutes | Cooking time: 10 minutes MAKES These offer a more robust density than a regular waffle, but are still lighter than bubble and squeak, so no stodge.

Download bubble and squeak recipe